A growing U.S. Latin population has added a dash of spice to fashion's melting pot, giving us Spanish shawls, sexy tango dresses and many more fabulous looks
www.oregonlive.com 03/09/03 VIVIAN McINERNY THE OREGONIAN
When Jennifer Lopez first topped the music charts, the whole world not only listened but also wanted to buy her fabulous chandelier earrings!
They found them at stores everywhere.
And that was just the beginning.
Embroidered Spanish-style shawls are available at department stores such as Meier & Frank and Mervyn's; ankle-strap shoes like those favored in tango dancing are carried by everyone from Escada to Payless ShoeSource; and reinterpretations of flouncy dance dresses are sold in the juniors departments of Nordstrom and J.C. Penney.
Styles favored in traditional Latin cultures provide one of the latest trends in theme dressing.
But fashion is fickle by design. The industry soon turned elsewhere for inspiration. Like all pop prattle, talk of the Latin look was fully expected to fade to a whisper.
But if clothes talk, these shout. And they are bilingual.
"When it first came off the runways in spring 2001, it looked too costumey for the average person to wear," said June Rau, a Northwest regional fashion director for Nordstrom based in Los Angeles. "But we have incorporated it into our wardrobes now, and you will see . . . off-the-shoulder necklines, asymmetric skirts and ankle straps in the mainstream. We know how to wear that now. We are comfortable with that."
Not surprising. The latest U.S. Census Bureau lists the Hispanic population as the largest minority population in this country. The rise in number has meant an upsurge of influence on popular culture.
Performers Christina Aguilera and Shakira have young girls bopping to Latin rhythms and baring their bellies in imitation of their ab-fab idols. Latin beauty Salma Hayek wore a curve-clinging gown in matador red to the Golden Globes and made the garment industry's presentation of stick figures fashions look like child's play. Ralph Lauren, who built his business on an idolized image of refined American beauty, recently chose the dark-eyed Penelope Cruz to represent his line.
This follows the traditional Old World elegance offered by fashion designers Oscar de la Renta, originally from the Dominican Republic, and Carolina Herrera of Venezuela. There's the night life and spice of the colorful Custo Barcelona line from Spain, and the international blend favored by designers Narciso Rodriguez, Esteban Cortazar and Eduardo Lucero.
Minorities are the new majority.
"It's the buzz right now, the whole Latin market," said Victoria Sanchez-Lincoln, fashion director of Latina magazine in New York City. "It started a few seasons ago but it keeps evolving to different things."
Latin style can't be reduced to a single look.
The fruit-crowned Carmen Miranda, the slick machismo of Ricky Ricardo and the cuchi-cuchi costumes of Charo were played for laughs. But pop culture is not snickering at the new Latinos. Maybe because the Latin population has hit a critical mass in this country. Latin culture may be just what America needs now, Sanchez-Lincoln ventures, as people tire of bad news making headlines.
"The Latin culture is so positive in energy and passion and color and richness in texture and fabrics," she said. "It is something pretty and fun to be a part of in the fashion point of view."
Tango dresses, with their asymmetric hemlines, ruffled flounces or split skirts or slim, slit skirts, look sexy on and off the dance floor. Latin dance teacher Sharon Reynosa has watched the fashions, music and moves leap in popularity the past few years.
"It used to take three of the first six dance lessons to get gringos on the beat," she said. "Now they are listening to that Latin music (on radio, MTV, commercials and even exercise classes) and they can get on the beat on the first class."
Even those who don't dance, can't resist the pull of sexy salsa dresses offered by clothing companies such as XOXO in junior departments of department stores. Or the colorful Brazilian crochet scarves sold at Onda Studio and Gallery in Northeast Portland.
Fashion photographer Rafael Astorga of Portland was raised in Venezuela and never thought of his perspective as particularly Latin.
"But in the last couple years I've come to realize that I do see things a little differently," he said. "It might be something about the geography, the light, the color saturation. If you look at fashion magazines from South America or Spain, they are very bold, they are very colorful."
Astorga shoots for Nike and also took Jantzen swimwear ads from standard to sizzling. He acknowledges a sexuality to his photography that many view as Latin but he sees as a global mix. Spanish culture was brought to Central America and then that culture entered the United States, where it is constantly reinterpreted.
"It's almost like our culture is noisy," Astorga said.
For Sanchez-Lincoln at Latina magazine, it's all good. "We are being more exposed," she said. "These things help us become more successful in political issues, in society -- everything." Vivian McInerny: 503-294-4076; vmcinerny@news.oregonian.com